Intro 101 make money taking great photographs

You love taking photographs and people keep telling you that you have a great eye. How difficult is it really to make money from your photographs?

There's a lot to taking good photo's and there's no way that one article could cover all the aspects of a good photo. This is an overview on how to get started taking making money with your hobby.

Before you start you will need:

- a decent camera doesn't have to cost the earth but it can be all the difference when it comes to making beautiful photo's

- to understand the different features on your camera learning to use the special features on your camera can make all the difference.

- to keep your eyes peeled for good photo opportunities at all times.

When judging photos generally the three main elements are judged. The crispness/ sharpness of the image, the composition and the subject.

The sharpness of your images can be improved by focusing properly. Zoom all the way in to the intended subject and focus. Then zoom out to the desired distance. The focus should be sharper.

The composition: whole books have been written about composition and there is a broad and fascinating science behind it. In general the law of thirds should serve you well when trying to make a well composed shot. Divide the frame into 3x3 lined sections. All the action should center along the lines. This means the subject should never be entirely in the center of the frame. When trying to compose your shot always try to balance the elements within the frame. You will get a feel for this with practice.

The subject - when taking commercial photo's this is obviously very important. You will want to photograph a wide variety of subjects.

Anyone can make a good living from selling stock photos. Look online or even set up your own.

You must remember that selling anything takes work. You will need to spend a great deal of time marketing yourself and your work.

If you are serious about making money from your photo's then you need to start putting together a portfolio containing your best work. Having a portfolio on hand can be very useful when wanting to impress prospective buyers. Consider putting together an online portfolio to reach an international market faster. You could even set up an online sales system selling your photos.

If you really know a lot about photography consider sending some of your best work in to one of the photographic magazines with a step by step account of your procedure and equipment used. It's worth the effort because you gain valuable exposure as an expert in your field.

You could use some more unconventional methods to generate cash with your camera. What about making screensavers from beautiful photos? If you don't have the technical know how you can ask someone to show you quite easily. Many people make good money this way.

There are all kinds of other markets you can consider selling your photo's to. Online magazines, print magazines, newspapers, travel brochures and books all need photos. Keep your eye's open for any publications that appeal to your niche.

All that’s left to do it grab your camera and start shooting!

Digital photography fast food memories

A quick search in Google or one of the other search engines can easily yield dozens of images from everyday life, snapped on camera phones, small pocket-sized digital cameras, or high-end digital SLR's. In many cases, camera phone images are so blurry as to be of little value, but they abound in the wide world of the Internet, and as small portable imagery devices get into more and more hands, the sheer volume of electronic images just continues to increase.

Some people ask the question of whether the digital photography revolution is necessarily a good thing. It is easier, faster and cheaper than ever before to capture memorable moments for later viewing. Because of this, digital photos often feel more “real” than traditional film-based images, as dozens or hundreds of images can be snapped continuously at no cost without interrupting the flow of a moment in order to have participants re-create it “for a picture”.

Because of this essential freedom to review, arrange, and remove unwanted images, we are far more generous with our shutters than was generally the case with more expensive film-based methods of image capture. Because of inexpensive storage however, many people never bother to remove most unnecessary images, resulting in bloated virtual albums with duplicates, accidental pictures of thumbs, uninspiring shots of brick walls, pavement, and more.

However, because of this essentially greater freedom to snap, some make the argument that many of our images have less value. This is tricky territory, however – who’s to say that a plastic bag lying on the sidewalk isn’t lovely, or that an overexposed picture of Fluffy the dog isn’t artistic or as valuable as a more traditional family photo? In the end, there’s not much point arguing about taste.

One thing is certain, though – as more and more cameras find their way into more hands, the numbers of images available on line are sure to continue to multiply – and whether good, bad, or ugly, each of these images has meaning for someone. And when you get down to it, individual freedom is one thing we can all likely agree on.

Digital camera carrying case change the way you take pictures

: A quality carrying case is an essential element for capturing good pictures. Digital cameras are highly susceptible to scratching and damage from transport. Not only does a digital camera carrying case protect digital cameras, but it makes photographers more efficient. Continue reading for the many advantages and options available for digital camera carrying cases. Digital cameras have many delicate components that need to be protected. Protecting a digital camera will help your digital camera last longer and avoid expensive repair costs. A particular camera case manufacturer, M-Rock, has developed a camera case with a rigid, yet cushiony structure, that is protected from water, weather, and pressure. Using closed cell foam and plastic panels, the M-Rock camera case is very efficient at protecting cameras. Carries Accessories and Supplies. A quality camera case makes photographers more efficient because they can effectively carry all the necessary supplies at all times. Camera cases made by M-Rock have at least two outside pockets for easy access, and plenty of interior room for extra lenses, batteries, or film. Clings on for active photography. Quality digital camera cases, like those created by M-Rock, are modular, meaning they can attach to other camera cases, or onto the modular belt. All M-Rock camera cases have two large belt loops on the back for easy mounting. Any photographer can tell you how great it is to have the camera right there at your side when needed. Visit M-Rock. com today and see why all types of photographers are choosing M-Rock camera cases over the leading competitors. They offer the many traditional advantages of quality camera cases, and have enhanced the case with many user friendly features. An M-Rock camera case can change the way you take pictures.

Finding the best buy on a digital camera

The best buy digital camera is not necessarily the cheapest, but the one that has the best overall package for your needs. It is important to check on the various functions and accessories before you compare prices to ensure that you find the best buy digital camera. The main reason that people want to buy a digital camera is for convenience rather than using a traditional film camera and there are a lot of best buy digital camera deals available.

The first point is to find the best buy digital camera with the highest resolution you can afford which will normally be at least 2 to 3 megapixels (2 million to 3 million pixels). If you will only output pictures to a computer monitor (for viewing, Web page use or e-mail) then the best buy digital camera will be one with a 640-by 480 pixel resolution and it will provide very satisfactory results. There are very few genuine best buy digital camera packages with high-resolution and the specified resolution may only apply to software interpolation rather than the true optical resolution. To print photographs on a good (at least 720 dots per inch) color printer you will need to look for the best buy digital camera with a high resolution.

Many retailers advertise their best buy digital camera as one with a plastic lens. It is better to buy a digital camera with a 100% glass lens for the best pictures. You should also look for the best buy digital camera packages with the most RAM that you can afford. The more RAM the camera has means that it can store more pictures and does not require downloading or erasing them as often.

When you are evaluating the best buy digital camera offers you need to compare optical, as opposed to digital, zoom capabilities. This is one of the most frequently used features of most digital cameras and you need to be sure that you have the capability to take the type of close-up shots that you want to.

Another issue that needs to be considered is whether the best buy digital camera offer actually includes the accessories that you require. If you find that you are going to have to purchase additional cables and software to be able to connect your digital camera to your computer then it is not going to be the best buy digital camera that you thought it was.

Finally, ensure that you have accounted for any shipping costs before you make your final decision over which best buy digital camera you purchase. A lot of unscrupulous retailers will advertise a price for a best buy digital camera but then charge high shipping costs.


Forensic Photography Used In Today’s Society

As the crowd pushes closer around the crime scene and yellow tape gets strung around the place of murder, theft or other forms of violence, little white chalk people get drawn around a corpse and its contortions there from the sidelines with a bag and lighting equipment comes the often unsung hero of our Articles. He or she is an important part of every investigation, with their sharp eye for detail and the patience of Job in the hustle and bustle that never fails to happen as the newest crime gets tagged, bagged and labeled.

I am talking about the Forensics Photographer.

Aside from taking fingerprints, dusting the crime scene and bagging evidence carefully to bring to the forensics lab and later the Court room, Photos are an important part of every crime investigation and later as evidence in Court.

Forensics Photography is a fantastic Tool to collect and catalog Data as well. Sometimes a sweep of the surroundings with the Camera logs in Images which would otherwise would have been overlooked or forgotten. The Person in the third row of the onlookers. That broken piece of glass in the shadow. Our busy Patrol Officer might have not noticed it, but our Camera Lens has picked it up.

One of the most important things in Forensic Photography is the sharpness of the Image. It has to be sharp as a well honed blade. Any fuzziness, pixilation or shake and it is as useless to the Court and the Investigators as an Eagle with pinkeye. The entire case rests on Forensic Photography and any flaw however sight, could cost a case to be lost.

Never, ever disturb the crime scene. The first round of photos has to be taken before anything has been touched, removed or altered. It is the freeze frame of the Crime Scene. The closest you will come to having been there during the crime. So make sure you plan the photo before you take it. Later if you must small adjustments, like the adding of a measuring tool to show distance is permissible, but not during the first go over.

Make sure you get a complete set of shoots. Those should include a close-up, a mid range and a wide angle. The Angel is very important as well. If you use the wrong point of view you may easily undo the best shoot by misrepresenting the relationship of distance to the object etc. Remember, your photo has to show exactly what is set out before you.

You need to record everything in writing. Mark out specific items, but never mark on the photo it-self. For that it is wise to use an overlay that you can remove as is needed. Transparency paper is used for that purpose. Make sure you lighting and exposure is set correctly. There are a lot of extremely good literature available that can teach you how to set your exposure for which light, background and scenario. This helps take the perfect pictures needed.

Lastly but not least. Photos can be messed up easily if your equipment is not in tip top shape. Make sure that your lens is clean at all times of dust. No smutches etc. I know it seems to be a topic that should not even have to be mentioned, but often it is the small things we overlook. After all the entire point of forensic photography is to capture those small seemingly mute points that are often overlooked.

A suggest you make your-self a check list and place even the most common sense items on your list. Batteries, Film, dust free equipment, tripod, removing the lens cap. You can think of it, write it down. You will be surprised sometimes how easily even the best professional forensic Photographer can make a simple mistake that could have been prevented by a check list. Remember the victim is counting on you too.

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Understanding red-eye in photos and how it can be prevented

: Why are eyes red in photos? Red-eye is a phenomenon that happens only when taking photos using a flash. When taking photos in day light or when in high ambient light scenarios people’s eyes look normal. When taking pictures in low ambient light scenarios using a flash the result many times is redness in the people’s eyes. The reason for the color red is simple – when flash light from the camera hits the eyes it penetrates and is reflected back from the retina. The color of the reflected light is red because the light is actually reflected from the red blood in the retina. In some scenarios the red-eye is evident while in others it is mild or doesn’t seem to appear at all. One of the main factors for that is the state of the pupils. If the pupils are dilated (for example the pupils dilate in darkness or when drinking alcohol) more light is reflected back from the retina and the eyes in the photo appear redder. Common way to reduce red-eye The most commonly used method to reduce red-eye is activating the camera’s built-in red-eye reduction feature. The red-eye reduction feature is very simple yet effective. When turned on the camera shoots a series of pre-flash strobes followed by one more strobe when actually taking the photo. The pre-flash strobes cause the pupils to reduce in size and by the time the photo is taken the pupils are small enough for the eye redness to substantially reduce. The red-eye reduction feature does what it is supposed to do: reduce the red-eye effect but almost never is it completely prevented. There are many limitations to this feature for example pupils reaction time to light can vary. In addition this feature can have a side-effect that results in photos having people’s eyes closed. The reason is that the pre-flash strobes blind the people and cause them to close their eyes. Other ways to prevent red-eye Understanding what causes red-eye helps being more creative in preventing it. Following are some ways to prevent red-eye other than using the built-in camera red-eye reduction feature: Increasing the light where photos are taken (for example by turning on the lights in a room before taking photos of people) causes people’s pupils to reduce in size and eye redness to reduce. Point the flash away from the eyes. Since red-eye is caused by flash light reflected from the retina the best way to prevent red-eye would be to eliminate such reflection as much as possible. In most cameras the angle between the flash and the lenses is narrow (this is especially true for built-in flash and pocket cameras) causing most of the flash to bounce back from the retina to the lenses. Increasing the angle (for example by using an external flash) reduces the reflected light. You can also use a bounce flash – by having the flash light bounce off a bright surface (a white wall or a professional reflector) most of the direct reflection from the retina can be eliminated. Red-eye can also be removed after photos were already taken by using photo processing software on your PC. Most digital cameras include a CD with PC software that embeds this feature. Although this method doesn’t eliminate the red-eye from the source it can result in a practically red-eye free photo. Some software are better than others some are manual while others automatically identify the red-eyes and process that area to revert to normal eye colors.

Memory matters

We aren’t talking “gray matter” memory here-though that type of memory matters too. We are talking digital camera memory. Digital camera memory is where your image data or photos are stored in your camera.

Most of the newer cameras have limited amounts of internal (sometimes called “on-board” or “built-in”) memory. Nearly all digital cameras rely on media or memory cards for storage. A media card is like re-useable film. Fill it with your images, download the images, and then fill the card again and again. Media cards don’t wear out easily.

To use a media card, insert it into the corresponding slot on your camera. When you take a picture, the camera saves the image data to the media card. When the card is full, it must be emptied or downloaded to your computer’s hard drive. There are several ways to do this. One way is to insert the card into the corresponding slot on the computer. Software does the rest. Another way is to connect the camera to the computer using USB or Firewire technology. The latest method is wireless or Wi-Fi technology-no removing the card from the camera or hooking up cables. At this point in time, only the newest camera models use Wi-Fi.

There are several types of media cards available. Your camera will dictate which type you must use. Compact Flash, SmartMedia, SecureDigital, MultiMedia, Memory Stick and xD Picture cards are the most common. Media cards are available with capacities ranging up to 2 gigabytes (GB).

After your images are transferred to you computer's hard drive, don't forget to back up your images to a separate storage device. As reliable as hard drives are, failures do occur. A second internal hard drive, an external hard drive, a Zip disk, a CD or DVD is common back up devices. Web sites are available to store back up images for a small fee.


Insider Tricks to Create a Great Wedding Video.

If you have been hired to create a video of someone’s wedding and reception, it can be a really fun job. Not only is there a lot of joy, laughing and fun moments during a wedding celebration but it is really gratifying to know that the video you are creating will be part of family celebrations of these people for decades to come.

Naturally, you want to do a good job. But whether you are just getting started or have been shooting video for years, you know things can sneak up on you and make your job more difficult. So there are some “insider tricks” that you should keep in mind especially on the big day so the wedding goes off like clockwork and you get that great video without disturbing the joy and fun of the family.

The first few precautions actually happen long before you drive up to the church and that is a thorough equipment check. Check and double check your equipment and then check it again. It can’t hurt to be a bit compulsive about this. Also, check that all of your supplies are new, in good shape and that you have back ups of batteries, bulbs, tapes or whatever recording media you are using. If you know your equipment is in good shape, you can walk in there like the professional you are.

Next, be everywhere early and well prepared. In fact, it can’t hurt to scope out the church and reception hall the day before to check the lighting and do some planning on where you might plan to get your best video from. If Martin Scorsese can preplan all of his shoots, so can you.

Now be sure everybody knows who you are. Meet the bride, groom, the wedding party and others close to the planning. If there are security people, be sure they know who you are as well. If there is a need for passes or badges of any kind, be sure you have one well ahead of the wedding day.

Part of networking with the key players includes getting some face time with others who may be supporting the wedding. Many weddings have a wedding planner who must know everything that is going to happen. Be sure he or she knows who you are and what you are going to do before you start disturbing their domain. It is also a great idea to meet the other photographers and do a bit of preliminary choreography so everybody can get their shots. Be aware that you really don’t want to do such a great job of videotaping the wedding that you damage the experience of the wedding guests. This all takes lots of planning.

If they rehearse, you rehearse. The rehearsal is one of the great missed opportunities that wedding photographers and videographers have to step through the wedding with the party and plan where you are going to be. Now secure permission to be there as you never want to surprise a nervous bride or her mother. But if they know you are working as hard as they are to get ready, they will be thrilled and you may find them giving you directions on shots they want included in the video and where they want (and don’t want) you to be at strategic moments during the wedding. This information is gold on producing a high quality video for your customers.

Once everything is ready, jump in there and enjoy the wedding right along with everyone else. You know you are ready and you like what you do so you can celebrate this big day and produce a top-notch video that will be a treasured memory for this bride and groom for many years to come.


First-rate camcorder bags improve filmmaking

Any filmmaker will tell you how important it is to have a quality bag to carry all the necessary gear. A good camcorder bag affects how the filmmaking process occurs. There are many different brands available, but one company in particular, M-Rock, has pulled out all the stops on the best camcorder bags. M-Rock has thought of all the details and has included all the most crucial components. M-Rock has developed first-class camcorder bags that have filmmakers around the world catching some amazing scenes.

M-Rock has been making their unique line of camcorder and camera bags for over 10 years. The line consists of 15 modular camcorder bags that can be used alone or in conjunction with other M-Rock camcorder bags. The wide range of products size is perfect for any type of filmmaker. Small camcorder bags are great for active filmmakers who are always on the go. Large camcorder bags are perfect for long filming expeditions. No matter what type of adventure you have planned, MRock has the right camera bag.

M-Rock sets themselves apart because of all the attention to detail they put in all their camcorder bags. Almost any camcorder can fit into an M-Rock bag. They have no space limitations and can be easily maneuvered to fit all kinds of gear. Try doing that with a competitor’s bag, which has Velcro strips that define where gear goes, and can also harm delicate equipment.

M-Rock uses only the most optimum components for camcorder protection, including ultra-soft felt, scratch resistant material on the inside, and ultra-tough, weather resistant material on the outside. The result is a camcorder bag that protects all types of camcorders, and has unsurpassed toughness, even in the most extreme conditions.

M-Rock camcorder bags are the right type of bag for any level of filmmaker. MRock has the quality and the price to meet any filmmaker’s budget, and provide them with a product that will only improve their filmmaking ability. M-Rock leads the way in high standards. Visit M-Rock today and give them a try.

Top 5 photo accessories

There is a lot of photography accessories on the market today - some are very useful, but most of them are a waste of money. Here are five of the most important accessories for landscape photography

Tripod: A tripod is important for one main reason, keeping your images sharp. You’ll want to select a small aperture to maximise depth-of-field, so you should be using a shutter speed of less than 1/60 second. It’s impossible to get a sharp image holding your camera in your hand at these slow speeds.

When choosing a tripod pick one made out of carbon fibres, these are light to carry but are sturdy in the ground. Choose a tripod that the legs will spread out far, this will help to optimise the strength of your support.

Filters: A small selection of filters is well worth packing when heading off for a trip. They don’t take up too much space and will definitely add a bit of spice to your images. A polarizing filter should be top of the list, while a few Neutral Density filters will certainly help with tough exposures. A 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 will help with exposure without affecting colour.

Bring a few warm-up filters to help when the light is cool. The 81-series are the best choice, which will give your images an extra bit of life. There’s a large amount of filters on the market today; these are the most important filters for landscape photography.

Correct Film: Fuji Velvia is an obvious choice for me when it comes to shooting landscapes. This is a slide film that is high in saturation and is perfect for capturing the colour of all seasons. It comes in two speeds of ISO 50 and ISO 100.

It’s always handy to have a few rolls of Black and White film in the bag. You never know when you see a scene and know that it’s perfect for B/W. Whichever film you choose, bring plenty of rolls; don’t be caught in the middle of nowhere without film.

If you are shooting with a Digital SLR bring plenty of memory.

Cable Release: If your camera has a connection for a cable release you should buy one. It is a perfect accessory to minimise the risk of camera shake - especially if you are taking long exposures. It doesn’t take up too much room and is extremely light.

Light Meter: All modern day cameras have light meters built into them, but if you are serious about landscape photography it’s advisable to have a hand-held light meter. These are small and of light-weight, and when used correctly are extremely accurate.

These are the most important bits and pieces for your camera bag; other important accessories include spare batteries, a grey card and a few spare lenses.

Scanning paper prints to digital photos on your hard disk

: Sometimes you find yourself in a situation when you have to scan paper prints, negatives or slides and store them as digital photos on your computer. Although the reason for doing that can vary there are some common considerations to scanning paper prints. In this article we will go over some of them and try to make your scanning experience easier. There are three types of prints that you might be scanning:
  • Paper prints: the most common, usually at sizes like 4X6 and 5X7.
  • Negatives: also known simply as film. This is the processed film usually 35mm from which paper prints are made.
  • Slides: very similar to negatives used for projecting photos on a large screen.
  • Scanning paper photos prints. Photo paper prints are easy to scan. You can choose to scan them yourself at home (purchasing a scanner that can do the job is usually cheap and costs less than a $100). You can also choose to mail them (or hand them) to a professional scanning service that will scan them for you and mail you back the originals and a DVD with the digital scans (such services include www. digmypics. com, www. digitalpickle. com, www. britepix. com and many more) There are pros and cons to both scanning at home and using a professional service. If you have a small number of photos scanning at home is easier. If you have plenty of photos using a service might be easier but you can end up spending more money. When scanning at home consider the following:
  • Resolution: the resolution of a scan is measured by the number of dots per inch that the scanner can produce. Most scanners can scan at 1200 DPI or more. Usually the scanner can be set to scan at different resolutions. The higher the resolution the slower the scan and the bigger the photo file size will be. For most paper prints scanning at 300 to 600 DPI is enough but you can experiment scanning at higher resolutions if you feel it provides better results.
  • Speed: If you have a small number of photos speed is not an issue. If you have hundreds or more of photos scanning speed becomes important. To get fast scans you would have to scan at the lowest resolution possible that results in good enough scans – for most paper prints 300 to 600 DPI is enough.. Also if you’re going to buy a scanner check the scanning speed (usually measured in the number of scans per minute make sure that you check the speed at the DPI you’re going to use).
  • Photo feeding: if you only have a small number of photos this is not an issue. If you have many photos make sure that the scanner you buy allows fast and easy loading of photos. Some higher-end scanners will let you load a stack of photos and will automatically feed and scan them for you. These scanners are the right choice if you are planning on scanning hundreds or more photos.
  • Scanning negatives and slides Scanning negatives and slides is harder than scanning paper prints. In most cases it is easier and maybe cheaper to use a professional scanning service (such services include www. slidescanning. com, www. myspecialphotos. com, www. pixmonix. com and many more). If you want to scan at home your standard flat scanner will not be good enough. In most cases you will need to spend money on purchasing a film/slides scanner. Those scanners are more expensive than the flat paper scanners. Negatives and slides are small high resolution sources and thus require scanning at higher DPI than paper prints. In most cases 2400DPI or higher should be used. The considerations for scanning negatives and slides are similar to scanning paper prints. If you need to scan just a few negatives or slides speed and ease are not important but if you’re going to scan hundreds or more you should spend more money on scanners that can feed the negatives or slides automatically or can just load a roll of film and scan it.

    Stock photos that sell

    If you want to make money with stock photography you'll have to follow some basic guidelines, no matter if you shoot for a micro stock site or a traditional stock photography agency.

    Shoot photos that sell

    That's by far the most important point. Would you pay for an image of your neighbors mother-in-law? Or of his dog? Of course not! No one would, perhaps not even your neighbor himself.

    Likewise professional photo buyers don't care for that kind of images. What they are looking for are photos that illustrate concepts, like career, relationship or retirement. Business related photos generally sell very well. Photos of handshakes sell well because shaking hands is a universal, widely understood idea that can be used to illustrate negotiations, contracts, treaties and even things like breaking-up or divorce.

    Travel photography can sell well if it can be used to illustrate concepts. For example, a photo of the Houses of Parliament in London can be used to illustrate democracy or governmental topics.

    Avoid legal pitfalls

    Most stock photography agencies have strict rules regarding images of people (if the people in the photo are recognizable), property (if the image of the property can lead to its owner, e. g. a license plate on a car), and trademarked logos or items anywhere in the image. If in doubt, don't submit such images. If you want to sell images with recognizable people in them, all agencies will require you to provide so called "model releases". A model release is a document with which the photographed person permits you to sell the image without need of compensation. Obtaining a signed model release from ordinary people is next to impossible, so you might be better off to either weed those images out or hire professional models.

    Keywording is the key to success, literally

    No matter how good your photos are, they won't sell if no one can find them. All stock sites let you tag or keyword your images. A good approach to keywording is to answer six simple questions for each image: Who? What? Where? When? Why? How?

    For example, let's suppose you have a bunch of nice healthcare related images, shot in a hospital. Answering "Who?" you might find "doctor", "nurse", or "patient". Answer "What" to come up with "lancet" or "stethoscope". Answering "Where" yields "hospital", "waiting room" or "theatre", while "When" gives "morning", "afternoon" or any other time of day or year. Ask yourself "Why" to evoke concepts like "sickness", "comfort" or "patience". Finally "How" can refer to the photographic technique involved: It could be "black and white" or "monochrome", it might be "blurred" et cetera.

    Keep the noise down

    Always keep in mind that the end user of your image may want to print it out eventually. The larger the print size the more noticeable noise will be. Noise is induced by your digital camera's sensor and is something digital photographers have to live with, much like traditional photographers had to live with film grain. Generally speaking the smaller (area wise) the sensor size and the higher the ISO sensitivity the higher the noise will be.

    5 tips to help you master digital photography

    Have you already mastered the art of taking photos without ‘red-eye’ syndrome? Are there some pictures that you know you should have turned out a lot better than they did? It happens to all of us – even the expert photographers.

    Here are five tips to help you move from beginner to master of digital photography, whether you’re using your cell phone or a point-and-shoot camera to snap shots.

    Compose Carefully

    One of the most basic digital photography tips is to pay attention to what’s in the frame of the viewfinder. Fill the frame. Nothing but blue sky, for instance, behind a single subject throws off the proportions of the photo and decreases interest. You can also turn the camera sideways to see if a vertical photo might have more impact than a horizontal shot of the same subject.

    You can also try positioning your subject off to the side, rather than in the center of the photograph.

    Take Great Close up Photos

    Your digital camera has a “macro mode” – think of it as a super magnifying glass. An extreme close up of something like flower petals can bring out textures that you never knew existed, and will add excitement to your photos. Play with this feature, you will find dozens of ways to use it to enhance your pictures.

    Buy a Tripod

    Digital cameras are prone to blurry photographs if your hands shake even a little bit. Several companies manufacture light, portable, inexpensive versions. Digital photography tips like this can save you hours of frustration and preserve otherwise perfect shots.

    Get Active

    Take your shot from the top of a teeter-totter, off the side of the boat, or standing on your head. Thinking outside the box can really pay off in unexpected ways. You will truly get once in a lifetime shots by adding a bit of creativity to your thinking.

    Take a Class

    Are you still hungry for digital photography tips? There’s nothing like practice to improve your photography – except practice plus experience gained by learning from a pro. You can find photography classes online, at your local recreation centers, and community colleges.

    Becoming an expert at digital photography takes time; you won’t become a professional photographer in your first week. Just keep trying new methods each time you use your camera, and before long, your friends and family will be admiring your newfound skills.

    7 attributes of a successful fashion model

    Have you ever looked at a successful model and said, "I am just as beautiful as this girl so I think I'll become a supermodel."

    I would like to clarify one thing and please listen carefully ...


    Yes, some people have a natural beauty and some learn more quickly than others. I'll agree that these attributes are important. But, I'll say it again - There is no such thing as a natural-born model.

    If you believe this, let me ask you a question. Do you believe there is such a thing as a natural-born surgeon? Do you think that the most famous surgeon in the medical profession was born to be a doctor? I guess when he was delivered the doctor who brought him into this world said, "Look!!! It's a surgeon!!" I don't think so.

    For this man to become this famous surgeon, it took many years of education, internship, and watching other doctors before he was even considered to do actual surgery. I'm really glad he did, aren't you?

    And, even after all these grueling years this doctor still was not guaranteed to become well-known in the medical industry.

    The point I'm trying to make is that, modeling can be a rewarding profession but it does require some effort on your part.

    The following are some of the attributes of successful models ..

    Learning ability and intelligence

    Self confidence

    Willingness to travel and leave friends and family behind

    Good organization skills

    A healthy body and lots of get-up-and-go!

    A model who is comfortable in setting goals and not afraid to go after them with a dogged determination

    Resistance to peer pressure - Stay drug and alcohol free

    Don't just read these attributes. Study them, learn them, and make them a part of your own personality traits. If you don't have them at first, pretend that you do.

    Remember, you will become what you think and the way that you act. You're not lying when you say, "I am in the process of writing down my goals for modeling and on my way to becoming successful." You're just telling the truth in advance!!

    Online competitions opportunity for photography art contest


    Photography is the science of capturing light onto a piece of sliver halide emulsion or film. It is the art of recording an image in history which we find captivating, amusing, or thought-provoking and provides us with a “true-to-life” image.

    Most pictures are made using a device called camera. A camera works somewhat like the human eye, capturing reflected light from objects, through a camera lens and focusing those light rays into an image. Traditionally, cameras recorded the image onto film and with technological advancements; modern day cameras store images in computer chips.

    Photography has become an art form in many different types. Different types of Photography are: Artistic Photography, Photojournalism, Documentary Photography Portrait Photography, Event Photography, Family Photography, Nature Photography, Advertising Photography, Underwater Photography, Satellite Photography and more.

    Making of a Memorable Photograph

    A memorable photograph is a work of art. To create a beautiful work of art in a photograph, you must give importance on colors, images, emotions and have a proper planning.

    In addition, the angle from which the photograph is taken can greatly influence the viewer's understanding and emotional reaction. A normal, everyday item shot from a new angle makes ordinary moments interesting to the viewers.

    Photography might not be considered beautiful at all, but a good one is certainly interesting. It is interesting because it shows something we haven't seen before. For example - war or natural disaster photograph.

    So if you are photographer having unique images and want to showcase your talent, you can join a competition and can send your photographs to various online competitions. To know more about the competition please visit our website at www. competearoundtheworld. com

    Let s go on to catalog digital photography

    Your company may be considering the benefits of imaging your promotional materials, specially your catalogs. Catalog digital photography can be a useful tool for managing your promotional items, but before doing it so, there are many issues that should be considered before committing to a catalog digital photography project.

    Catalog digital photography is one of the processes that are primarily designed to improve the sales of a certain business or company. Digital photography is also one of the fastest growing and most ubiquitous product categories in consumer electronics today.

    As our modern technology grows faster and faster each day, particularly in photography, there are many serious photographers, including professionals, who want to take advantage of the unique creative powers available through digital photography and digital image processing.

    Digital photography, as opposed to film photography, uses electronic devices to record the image as binary data. This makes it possible to store and as well as edit the images on personal computers, and also the ability to show and delete unsuccessful images immediately on the camera itself. Digital cameras are now selling more than the film cameras; perhaps the reason is that some features that are included in digital cameras are not found in film cameras, such as the ability to shoot video and record audio. Some other devices, such as mobile phones, now include digital photography features.

    Using digital photography has advantages and disadvantages. Some advantages of digital photography over traditional film include:

    • Instant review of pictures, with no wait for the film to be developed: if there's a problem with a picture, the photographer can immediately correct the problem and take another picture.

    • If one already owns a newer computer, permanent storage on digital media is considerably cheaper than film.

    • Images may be copied from one media to another without any degradation.

    • Pictures do not need to be scanned before viewing them on a computer.

    • Digital cameras can be much smaller than film cameras of equivalent quality.

    • Digital photography enables you to experiment with the camera settings, different styles of images can be tried out, learnt from and techniques improved all without the expense of film processing.

    The disadvantages of digital cameras, includes:

    • At the same price level digital cameras cannot match the quality of film cameras.

    • Film cameras are generally more reliable and durable than digital cameras in outdoor environments, especially in wet, cold, and/or humid weather.

    • There are special types of film, such as for infrared light, that have no equivalent in digital (CCD's are sensitive to Near Infrared).

    • Film remains more admissible as evidence in court, as it is much harder to manipulate than digital.

    • Film has a better dynamic range.

    As more efficient options for creating and producing digital media proliferate, individuals and organizations increasingly need to control and manage these assets. There are now more reliable companies who are offering a comprehensive and intuitive cataloging methodology, in a single window interface, introducing digital media management and repurposing features such as automatic web generation, slide show, IPTC and EXIF annotations, file conversion, contact sheets, voice annotation, rendering of digital camera raw file formats, and full Apple Script integration in this class of application.


    Candid Photography, Taking Pictures Of Your Friend Without Their Attention

    Candid photography is by definition taking pictures of people when they are unaware. Part of the fun in photography is catching your human subject’s off guard so that your pictures have more emotion. Photographers who work for magazines, like Time Life, have been able to get candid shots of their subjects. I think most of us can remember the black and white photographs of Africans and others giving rise to more emotion from the viewer. Taking candid shots may appear easy although there are few techniques in the photography world that will make the candid shot worth more than just a snap shot of friends.

    First and of course most important is to keep the subject in view while they are not paying attention. The next step is training your eye to catch the moment. You have to be able to move fast, but with design. You need to have your camera set for the picture before you are even aware you will take the photograph. The best way to do this if you have a digital or automatic camera is to keep it on the proper setting. Manual cameras take moments to focus and can loose the candid shot if your subject becomes aware of you.

    Candid photography relies on the light; however, you may not always get to choose the angle. The angle could be where you are standing at the time. As a photographer of candid photography, you know the importance of choosing the best angle at the right moment that is possible.

    The entire point of candid photography is to gain the unguarded moments of a person’s emotions, whether it is tears, happiness, love, or other emotions. While it is true, you need to have light, angle, and a good camera to catch the shot it is more important to observe. Most photographers are trained observers. Their eyes will wander over the crowds, landscape, or other setting searching for the perfect shot. They will always have a camera ready. It can be extremely hard when you are taking photographs of your friends because they tend to be more involved in the conversations or activity.

    The key to taking candid photographs of your friends is to draw them away from the fact that you carry a camera. If they forget you carry the tool, they are more likely going to act natural. Some friends tend to pose in front of the camera while others will shy away turning their backs when you get ready to take a photograph. Knowing your friends will help you find the best way to take candid shots without their knowledge.

    Observing, having the camera ready, and understanding the basics of photography will yield you better results when you try for a candid shot. Posing or turning away from the camera will take away from the shot you hoped to attain so hanging to the side or a little ahead can get you the shot you may need. Profiles make great candid shots because the person will not realize you are taking a photograph until you have already clicked the button. Candid photography can be one of the most rewarding arts of photography, but also vexing when the subject is aware of the camera. Always remember the camera when going out with friends.

    Word Count 550

    Getting great photo prints from your digital camera

    The first step to getting great digital photo prints, is to make sure you use a good quality digital camera.

    Digital photos are gaining popularity over traditional film photos because of the features and convenience associated with the newer technology. In some cases it's even more cost effective to print your own photos at home instead of taking them to a developer or sending them in.

    Here are some words of wisdom for making great digital photo prints at home.

    There are really 4 key components to a great printed photo: Image, Printer, Ink, Paper. Each is part interrelated therefore equally important for success.

    The image is the starting point for a good photo. There are many different camera models out there, but in general, you will need at least 3.2 megapixel picture taking ability. Some snazzy digital SLR cameras have 8 megapixels or more. The camera should always be set to the highest resolution while taking the shots just in case you want to make enlargements later on.

    Image transfer is crucial! Do not just throw the highest pixel image at some paper, you may not be happy with the results.

    Sometimes, too high of a pixel count will create unsightly jagged color transitions in your photo and waste a lot of your ink and time. Too few pixels and the photos will turn out very "grainy". It's usually best to stay within the 200-300 pixels per inch range.

    This chart may help you determine your appropriate photo sizes.

    Print Size : Good Results (200 ppi) : Excellent Results (300 ppi)


    4x6 inch ... 800 by 1200 px (~1 mpx) ..... 1200 by 1800 px (~2 mpx)

    5x7 inch ... 1000 by 1400 px (~1.5 mpx) .. 1500 by 2100 px (~3 mpx)

    8x10 inch .. 1600 by 2000 px (~3 mpx) .... 2400 by 3000 px (~7 mpx)

    11x14 inch . 2200 by 2800 px (~6 mpx) .... 3300 by 4200 px (~14 mpx)

    16x20 inch . 3200 by 4000 px (~13 mpx) ... 4800 by 6000 px (~29 mpx)



    px = Pixels

    mpx = Megapixels

    ppi = Pixels per inch

    (data compiled from PC World. com)

    For example, if you had a picture taken with a 1.5 Megapixel digital camera, a 5x7 inch print is probably the largest size print that would work. Anything larger than a 5x7, may not look good.

    However, if you had a picture taken with a 14 Megapixel camera, you should be able to print out a 11x14 inch print with excellent results (300ppi), or a "good" looking 16x20 inch print at 200 ppi.

    In addition to the digital camera image, there are a few other components that go into making good quality digital photos you'll want to be aware of: Your printer, the ink cartridges you use, and the quality of the photo paper you use. Each component factors into your end result.

    Flower pictures - a mild obsession 1

    What does one need to do to get the perfect close-up of a wild flower? Set up a tripod, clip on camera, then snap, snap it's in the bag, camera, chip.. whatever? Maybe... but consider a few unexpected impediments first. Finding the perfect clump of subjects (mostly the easy part), stopping suddenly or rather screeching to a halt (sometimes interesting along a busy highway)...parking and gathering up the necessary gear (easy) - then my least favourite part, lugging everything over hill and dale. Tripod, camera bag with several lenses which never seem to get any lighter and then fun, fun, fun...It seems, seemed a short distance across three fences to where the wild, gorgeous yellow number (nothing exotic - a simple daisy but a beauty!), nods in the gentle breeze..but...

    Have you ever tried to climb over a fence with tripod in hand and weighty camera bag over shoulder? "Just pass them through the fence and follow", you say! In theory perfect but as is often the case when I'm out ready to shoot I have tripod ready, camera clipped in, slung over right shoulder legs extended, spread ready to go (the fact that I look like a giraffe with ungainly neck protrusions goes unnoticed) and my camera bag is old, slightly smelly and large!. So, how do I climb through the first fence, let alone the second or third in pursuit of the perfect daisy without a lot of folding of legs pushing and shoving, and unclipping of my precious digital genius first? Simple answer - I don't, I try to get through regardless. Result? The air rapidly turns blue around my head and expletives neither original nor inventive start erupting unbidden from my person. And then the final indignity as at least one part of my favourite jumper gets snagged by an ever vigilant barb! My alternative solutions: throw the gear over and hope for the best, find a gate (how many miles to the nearest?), or simply leave it all in the SUV...barring the digital genius and one's favourite 1:1 lens of course!

    My final decision? Leave tripod and bag in the SUV, take the necessary, and hope that the ravages of the previous night haven't wrought havoc with traditionally rock steady hands. So then leaping like a gazelle over fences one, two and three, I stride toward the perfect clump of yellow. It's late in the season, so all the white daisies are pretty much done - rich, golden yellow it is.

    Selecting the perfect specimen is next. I need to decide what I'm trying to say in the pic. Perfection with clarity - nature's form, sublime in its attention to detail or organic soft colour merging into more colour with shadowy bits - a bit of both perhaps. The magic of digital, the freedom of digital - the ability to try everything because one can! I love it. It's a revelation, a deepening of the creative urge to explore new realms without cost... or end sometimes.

    Sure, one can always argue that it leads to lack of direction, lack of planning but one can also argue in return that it extends one's vision, increases one's output and ability to see the world from different perspectives. I relish the challenge!

    Back to the world of yellow! Perfection... mmmm. Unable to settle on which of the perfect choices is THE perfect choice I decide to shoot anyway, putting pen to paper or rather index finger to shutter button in order to get the creative juices flowing. As always seems to happen, I relax into it and my mind opens up to the possibilities: depth of field, front edge of a petal in focus back edge out and vice versa but mostly my mind is consumed by warm yellow. Kneeling on the ground head down intensely focused - the butt in the air angle would not be an attractive sight for any passing observer but I don't need to worry about such considerations as this mild obsession most often leads to splendid isolation.

    A bit of advice - bracket everything (1 either side in Ѕ stops or thirds if you have the choice), shoot at the highest resolution you can achieve with whichever model of digital genius you possess and take at least half a dozen shots per chosen angle. Give yourself the best chance of capturing the one you really wanted - the perfect image, beautiful enough to grace your wall, a wall anywhere. One feels such an idiot when one has to declare it didn't quite happen because of trigger finger meanness! Digital genius is defined by trigger finger generosity or put another way - repetition is the basis of professionalism. Whatever it takes I say. Get the shot! The satisfaction is immense.

    More advice - check the first few images carefully on the preview screen just to make sure everything is working as it should. Don't end up taking twenty splendid black and white shots of a gorgeous yellow daisy - do the greyscale thing in Photoshop! Slow down, check the first few brackets. Check that the ISO is set to 100 not to 1600 from last night's fun and that all the exposure compensation overrides are back to normal (or leave the settings at 1600 over by two if weird and whacky is what you're after). Little things but in my twenty years as a photographer these little things become mortifyingly large things if ignored!

    So perfection captured, 0 and 1's secured in the land of Flash wizardry it's back across the three fences leaping not quite so enthusiastically now, the gazelle's knees are a little creaky from kneeling on the damp ground - back to the ever patient, ever reliable SUV. Gear stowed, key in the ignition, we're off ...A glow of anticipation washes over me!

    But never forget the first things to do on your return? Download and backup! Forget at your peril. DOWNLOAD AND BACKUP just in case you didn't get it the first time.

    Copyright 2005 Patrick Heathcock

    Nikon underwater cameras - capturing the underwater world

    Technology has indeed taken a leap - with its advancement it opens a gateway for us to see the world beneath the waves, to capture the details which seemed to be impossible. Nikon - one of the world’s leading brands in innovation - has been established since the year 1917. With its dependability and consistency in the world of cameras it has been a market leader for years.

    It is really the functionality of Nikon that has made them so desirable.

    Camera controls are intuitive to operate, starting with the upper toggle switch on the rear of the camera, switching between wide angle and telephoto views. The image that you are focussing on is displayed on a small screen on the rear of the camera – there is no eye piece as such, unlike the conventional cameras the you may have seen.

    A little pressure on the focus/execute button makes the camera focus and calculate exposure - a full press will cause the camera to take a picture. Most users will use this fully automatic mode.

    The screen found at the back of your camera will allow you to review images taken. It makes it possible to review the shots that you have taken, and you can delete the images you do not want to keep. Use the lower toggle switch to step through the shots you have taken.

    To quote the words of one professional underwater photographer, "the Nikon D70 allows access to all of the most frequently used buttons and functions. Absent is the Depth-of-Field preview button, which I feel is rather useful but some may not even know exists!"

    Indeed, using the additional settings of AF-C (Continuous Auto-Focus) and Dynamic-AF area, one can shoot macro, wide-angle and even portraits by simply and quickly changing the lens. You'll see the benefit of this sharp and precise auto focus system when it comes to chasing and capturing very fast subjects.

    Nikon underwater cameras are designed both for professionals and first time users.

    Choosing the right lens

    Every owner of an interchangeable-lens camera is faced with the pleasant dilemma of picking the most appropriate lenses to buy, then deciding which to use. However, there are no rules to go by; much depends on your personal style and what you already own. To help you decide which lenses to buy and how best to use them, we offer the following.

    Normal lenses: Today, many 35mm photographers opt for a short zoom instead of a 50mm, but both have their virtues. If you need a fast, general-purpose lens in the f/1.4-f/2 range for available-light work, nothing can beat a 50mm. Positives: Usually more compact, lighter than a short zoom; often less costly; generally very sharp; provides brighter viewing image. Negatives: No zooming; you must compose by moving the camera.

    Short zooms offer framing flexibility, often in a package not much larger than a 50mm lens. A 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 is usually the smallest and least expensive, but a 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 is more useful for shooting interiors, vistas, and cramped quarters because it gets down to 28mm. If you shoot portraits, nature, or sports at close range, consider a compact 35-105mm or a 35-135mm zoom. Normal zoom positives: Equivalent to two or more single focal length lenses in a handy, responsive package, it provides intermediate focal lengths; there's less need to switch lenses. Normal zoom negatives: Moderate aperture (typically f/3.5-4.5) limits low-light shooting and focusing precision with manual focus, affects viewing brightness. Zooms tend to be larger, heavier, more expensive than 50mm lenses.

    Wide-angle lenses: They range from 24mm (bordering on ultrawide) to 35mm (bordering on semiwide). As with normals, the choice is between very compact, single-focal-length lenses of relatively wide aperture (f/2-f/2.8, a few f/1.4s) and moderate-aperture zooms (around f/3.5-4.5), which provide superior framing flexibility. For positives and negatives on both types, see normal-lens section above.

    Many wide zooms, such as 24-50mm, 25-50mm, 28-50mm, etc., encompass normal as well as wide-angle focal lengths, which is an advantage. A few (for example, 21-35mm, 18-28mm) combine ultrawide (21mm and below) and wide focal lengths (see ultrawide section below). Many are not much larger or heavier than a 50mm. Although 25-50mm or 21 -35mm may not sound as impressive, it's the zoom ratio (long divided by short focal length) that counts. If you need a really fast wide-angle (for example, 35mm f/1.4, 28mm f/2, 24mm f/2) for available light or shooting handheld with slow film, stick to single focal lengths.

    Ultrawide-angle lenses: With focal lengths of 21mm and below in 35mm format, they provide extreme angular coverage of 90 degrees or more. Positives: Ultrawides, by virtue of low image magnification, provide great depth of field; more likely to yield sharp-looking images when handheld at slow shutter speeds. Excellent for expanding tight interior spaces, capturing vistas; for intimate photojournalism, street photography. Negatives: Apparent perspective distortion, though useful for dramatic or comic effects, is problematic in portraiture. Avoid placing subjects near edges of the frame or prominent features, such as noses, in the foreground.

    Medium tele lenses: Sometimes called portrait lenses, these optics in the 85-135mm range are fine for portraiture, minimize apparent perspective distortion, and provide convenient working distance when shooting faces close up. Many tele zooms work well in this range, but they're heavier, longer, and slower than single focal length lenses. If you shoot a large percentage of portraits, you should consider getting an 85mm f/2, 100mm f/2, or 105mm f/2.5, even if you own a tele. Positives: They allow discreet photography of people without the perspective-flattening effect of long teles; single focal length type combines fast aperture, bright viewing image, good image quality. Negative: For zooms, see above; for single focal length, fairly specialized.

    Long tele lenses: Traditionally, any lens over 135mm for 35mm photography is a long tele. Today, the most popular by far are zooms in the 80-200mm or 70-210mm range. Unless you need a lens that's very fast and very long (such as the optically superb but large, heavy, and very expensive 300mm and 400mm f/2.8s used by professional sports photographers), a tele zoom is the most flexible and economical choice. For many photographers, a 70-210mm f/3.5-4.5 (especially one with macro) is the only long tele they'll need. Positives: Reasonable size, weight, and price, wide range of uses—nature, sports, people, portraits, scenics. Negatives: Moderate and variable aperture; mediocre performance unless stopped way down. A number of suprisingly compact 100-300mm f/5.6s are now offered for those who need a bit more reach, and there are a few fine 200-500mm f/5.6s for those who need really long teles for such things as long-distance sports close-ups. Long tele zoom negatives: larger size and weight.

    How to choose a good digital camcorder

    With the evolution of the digital camcorder you no longer have to deal with the grainy amateurish home movies you have been used to. Now you can even edit, copy, and email your movies right on your computer.

    You can now get much higher quality videos by using digital camcorders which offer good to excellent picture quality, excellent sound, ease of use, and compactness. Some camcorders even double as a still camera for photos.

    Sony is still the leader in camcorders with many models available in many different formats. Some other top brands include famous camera maker, Canon as well as JVC, Panasonic, and Samsung.

    The most popular format these days is the Mini-DV format, which is the camcorder I personally use. Other formats available include the DVD-RAM and DVD-R.

    Let’s look a little more in depth at some of the formats available.

    MinDV’s in my opinion give you a lot of bang for your buck. Some of the newer models can fit in a shirt pocket and they record super-high quality images. The typical recording length of a miniDV tape is 60 minutes and the cost per tape is around $6.00. Prices for these camcorders vary from $300 to $2,000. Expect to pay more for the smaller versions with higher zooms.

    The Digital 8 or D8, gives you the quality of digital using Hi8 or 8mm cassettes. These record at a faster speed so a 120 minute cassette lasts 60 minutes on SP. These camcorders run from $300 to $800.

    The disc based camcorders use a DVD disc, which offers durability that tape cannot. These camcorders record standard MPEG-2 video, which is the same format in commercial DVD videos.

    Recording time varies from 20 minutes to 60 minutes depending upon the quality level you choose. DVD-R is supposed to be compatible with most DVD players but are write once only, the rewritable DVD-RW is better but also more expensive. Expect to pay $700-$1,000 for these camcorders.

    So how do you decide which one to go with?

    First decide on your price range and how you will be using the camcorder. If you are using it to record sporting events you will probably want one with a long recording time and a good optical zoom. The tape based camcorders will usually bring you better picture quality, so bear that in mind. With digital formats that use MiniDV, Digital 8, or MicroMV tapes, you can get at least 60 minutes of recording on a standard cassette. MiniDV and D8 cassettes are the least expensive and easiest to find.

    Most flip out LCD viewers measure 2.5 inches on the diagonal, but some are larger, adding about $100 to the price. If the viewer seems small and difficult to use or suffers from too much glare, consider trading up to a similar model or a different brand to get a better screen.

    If you're buying your first camcorder, concentrate on finding the best one for your budget, regardless of format.


    The Underwater World Captured With Photography

    Underwater photography is growing every year, those who go diving wish to bring the diving world visible to those who do not dive. We have always been fascinated with the oceans and bays of the world as an unknown world. Bringing vacation pictures home to your friends or selling them as professionals has been a time honored tradition and now we can bring the underwater world home through the use of digital photography.

    There are many types of underwater cameras. You have the highly expensive professional cameras and the one time slightly effective versions. Knowing which camera will work for you is very important. Part of finding the right camera may lie with in the housing you wish to purchase. Underwater photography requires you to protect your camera from the harmful affects of water so you will have to purchase housing with seals to eliminate the water. The housing you find may fit the camera you have. In fact, most companies will sell the housing for the cameras you have. If you find you, need a better camera for the underwater world you will need to look at packages. These packages will include the housing.

    Let us look at the 35mm cameras. Most of these cameras are just point and shoot. If they were meant for underwater chances are they have at least a mild filter to correct for the lack of color underwater. These cameras will not filter out the particles you find floating along in the water on a poor visible day. Usually they are limited to less than 100 feet. I would not use this type for anything below 80 feet. You would not want to loose pictures because the housing failed under pressure. While this is not common, it is a concern for most photographers.

    The more professional cameras are larger with a huge lens to let light in as well as have filters to help bring clarity to any photograph. Typically, these cameras require you to have a deep-set hobby in underwater photography, as the expense is high. Digital cameras are the best way to take underwater photographs because you can make sure you have the desired affects before leaving the seen. Of course, most underwater life will not hang around for a second shot, but coral reefs and the animals that inhabit them may remain.

    Most underwater cameras will also have a flash. It is best to take an underwater photography course before delving to far in your hobby. Sometimes the flash will help you with the photographs, but other times it will wash the subject out and ruin the print. You can also use underwater cameras when you are snorkeling. Some flashes are built in to the camera while others are external. The external flashes can be a stick with a little light bulb on top.

    When storing your underwater camera and flash you usually want to store them without the batteries as the batteries can die quickly. This is mostly for the cameras that use double AA batteries. Underwater photography is a great world to take home with you especially if you are on a dive vacation. Underwater photography requires a few more skills than regular photography due to the lighting conditions, but once you understand them you will be bring home great pictures every time.

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    Slr film photography special effects part 2 - impressionist effect

    : This is a second article addressing SLR film photography Special Effects techniques that can be accomplished “through the lens”, being immediately immortalized on the film and ultimately the negative. It requires no special instructions to the developing agent, whether your local photography shop or mail in developing service. Your prints will be developed with perfect exposure. The Impressionist Effect, like the Ghosting Effect detailed in Part 1, , is accomplished by using your SLR's multiple exposure feature, with a simpler procedure than outlined in your SLR user manual. The Impressionist Effect is more like photo art, ideal for still life or landscape photography, where all is motionless. This effect works particularly well for photographing flowers but would create an equally impactful and artistic photograph of any still life shot that exhibits lots of different colors; like brightly painted houses, fishing boats or toys. You only take two exposures on the same film frame, one in-focus and the second out-of-focus. This will give your photograph that Monet-style look. The key is that nothing within the frame moves between the first and second shot. The simple steps to execute the Impressionist Effect are:
    1. Stabilize the camera using - a tripod is best, a stable surface is a second option. You might even want to use a remote shutter release cable to avoid any camera jitter.
    2. Set number of multiple exposures on your SLR to '2';
    3. For the roll of film in your SLR, determine the film speed (S);
    4. Reset the camera film speed (Yes, you can override the setting) to (2 Ч S) or, if not an exact match, set it to the absolute closest speed ((2 Ч S) ± adjustment);
    5. Turn OFF the camera's LENS Automatic Focus feature (located on the Lens itself);
    6. Take your first shot with the frame in sharp focus;
    7. Take the second shot with the frame completely out of focus (Yes, turn your lens to extreme out of focus.
    REMEMBER: Check and reset the SLR film speed and number of exposures to their original settings before continuing with your next shot. Some SLRs will automatically reset the number of exposures back to '1' before advancing the film to the next frame. It's always better to verify this. All of the SLR Film Special Effects for the Impressionist Effect, detailed in this and the previous Ghosting Effect article, require no special instructions for developing your film. Normal developing at the rated film speed will ensure the picture is properly exposed and developed. This truly artistic photograph will have you considering a number of display options - maybe an 8” x 10” enlargement, or alternatively, a 4” x 6” print in an 8” x 10” double mat – accentuating the Impressionists Art with the classic beauty of a pewter frame. What a thoughtful gift idea for someone special or that special occasion.

    Get the most out of your camera. part 2

    In part 1 of: Get the most out of your camera, we looked at how to use the aperture and the creative uses of depth-of-field. In this part we’ll look at how to use the shutter button on your camera and how both the shutter and the aperture control exposure.

    The shutter is a mechanical device that controls the length of time that light is allowed to act on the film.

    Most standard cameras allow us to use a range between 16 second and 1/1000 second. You might be wondering, why anyone would use a long shutter time of 16 seconds: I’ve used this and even longer shutter times when taken lowlight landscape images. I would always advise the use of a tripod with these long exposures time to avoid blur images.

    Using a shutter speed of 1/125 second should safely avoid overall blur due to camera movement if you hold the camera by hand. Any longer shutter time should require a tripod.

    Each time you open the shutter by one, we double the light, when we close down the light by one we half the light. Open the shutter at 1 second allows twice the light as that of a Ѕ second.

    The shutter can also be used creatively when taking landscape images or sport images. If you want to add motion to your image a slow shutter speed can give an image an extra bit of sway. No more so than taking images of streams. Using a slow shutter speed when photographing water will cause the water to blur, resulting with the image expressing motion.

    By contrast, a fast shutter speed of 1/250 would be used in shooting wildlife or where the subject that you’re shooting needs to be still and sharp. Most wildlife photographers would use a fast shutter speed.

    By using the shutter and aperture together we control exposure. Both allow light to enter the camera: the shutter by time and the aperture by the size of the hole in the lens.

    For example: you’re shooting a landscape scene; you get an exposure reading at f/11 at ј second. You know that by using f/11 that the entire image wont be sharp. You want to shoot at f/22, which is four times less light than f/11. You need to quadruple the light through time; each time you open the shutter by one you double the light, so open it by two stops and your exposure time will be 1 second. Your final exposure should read f/22 at 1 second.

    At the best of times, calculating the correct exposure can be a difficult task, but with a few simple tips our images can produce eye-catching colours that we see all around us every day.

    Choosing a digital camera printer

    There are so many types of digital camera printer on offer that finding the right one for your personal and business needs can be a very daunting task. However, there are a few main points to consider when choosing a digital camera printer that will help make the process a little easier.

    It isn’t necessary to have a high-resolution digital camera printer to make great pictures. The higher the printer resolution you use, the more pixels you'll need in your original image file to produce a decent size print with your digital camera printer. The actual file size (in pixels) of the image from your camera, divided by the printer resolution (in dots per inch), determines the final print size. So, if the image file size is 1,478 x 1,280 pixels, and you print the file at 163 dpi with your digital camera printer, the final print size will be 9 x 7.8 inches.

    If your digital camera printer resolution is 300 dpi, then you will have a higher resolution with more dots per inch laid down on the paper but a smaller print size. It is therefore important to ensure that you have the image file size to support the resolution of your digital camera printer.

    The price of a digital camera printer is lowering whilst the quality is increasing. If you choose the right digital camera printer you can have your own photo lab, greeting card designing and sign making department with just your digital camera, some software and a printer.

    The aim of having a digital camera printer is to produce photographic prints that look as close to real photographic prints as possible. This type of digital camera printer was once very expensive to buy and run, but technological advancements and competitive pricing have made them much more accessible to the average buyer. Ink-jet printers are now available that can produce excellent prints and a near photo-quality printer is much easier to find for people with a small budget. You will probably want to have a digital camera printer with a scanning feature built-in. If you want to produce same-size scans of photos you don’t need scan resolutions higher than 300 samples per inch for the scanner.

    Your digital camera printer should also have the same interface that you already have on your computer. So if you have USB, then get a digital camera printer with USB, a Firewire printer if you have Firewire or a SCSI printer if you have SCSI. There should be no need to buy a digital camera printer that requires a different interface to the one you already have on your computer or it will cost you more to upgrade if necessary.

    Getting the most out of digital camera memory cards

    Most photographers, whether amateur or professional, have a digital camera. While regular film cameras still exist and are quite popular, there is nothing like saving money on film developing and being able to see a live review of your photos at the moment you take them. These are the benefits of a digital camera but, in order to enjoy these perks, we have to understand the importance of memory cards.

    Memory cards are small devices that fit inside the digital camera and store each photo that we take. It allows for us to review the images immediately and also permits us to make actual prints. If you have ever strolled by the express photo department in a local retail store, you are likely to see a large machine that resembles a copier. This is a unit that often provides actual photos, within minutes, from the use of memory cards and other digital media. Upon closer inspection, you may notice that the unit has a small slot for memory cards to be inserted. At that time, it then begins to read the contents and display the results on screen for photo selection. An individual can select which photos to print and what, if any, retouches are to be made. Upon completing the order, print photos are usually available within seconds and are disbursed in a tray beneath the unit.

    Because memory cards are so important to the operation of our digital camera, they must be kept as safe as possible. The best way to ensure the safety of memory cards is to keep them away from extreme heat or cold, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun and keep them away from water at all times. It is best not to handle the cards excessively, but rather store them inside your digital camera for added security.

    Memory cards are designed to hold a certain number of photos, which is determined based on the capacity of the card. If you plan to take a lot of photos or simply wish to have ample space without having to continually buy memory cards, consider a model that holds a lot of photos. For the occasional picture taker, basic memory cards will be ideal with a less than 100 image capacity.

    When shopping for memory cards, make sure that the product you choose is compatible with your camera and is made by a well known manufacturer. Memory cards are readily available in the electronics section of most retail stores and online at any electronics or specialty retailer.

    Taking photographs for your scrapbook

    Once you begin scrapbooking, you begin to see photography in a whole new light. When I created my first album I realized that my photos always had way too much space that was not part of the picture, meaning too much sky, or too much grass.

    Now, one of the joys of scrapbooking is that you can cut away all of the excess sky, or all of the excess trees, however after you begin your first scrapbook you begin to take pictures a little bit differently. As you look through the camera lens, you begin to see the scrapbook you’ll be making.

    You’ll also to begin thinking about a “story” or a theme. I know for me, I take more pictures now, however where I used to take 5 shots of the same thing, I now take 5 shots of a whole story.

    I also tend to take my camera to more places now, knowing I want to preserve the memory. It’s fun when folks ask me if I’ll share my photos, since no one else thought to bring a camera to a particular event.

    If you are using a digital camera, you can view your picture immediately and determine if this is the picture you want. You then have the opportunity to either retake the picture or if you like the picture but see a lot of “waste” you know you’ll be able to cut it out prior to putting the photo into an album.

    After you upload the photos from your camera, you can then print them out on photo paper, which can be purchased at any office supply store.

    So, the next time you take out your camera, ask yourself what pictures you envision in your new scrapbook.

    What every photo researcher ought to know about buying digital stock photos

    Your Step-by-Step Guide to Buying Digital Stock Photos

    If you've been a photo buyer for your magazine or site any length of time, you probably realize how much the photography industry has changed.

    Many professional photographers are now using high-quality, high-res digital cameras instead of film for their stock photos. Read below to find out the easiest way to locate and purchase digital stock photos for your magazine, brochure or Web site.

    Where to Buy Stock Photos

    One way to find stock photos quickly and easily is through a stock agency Web site. Stock agencies provide several benefits.

    - They offer a large inventory of stock photos by many different photographers.

    - You can choose from a variety of styles, colors, photo sizes and quality.

    - With digital stock agencies and portals, you can normally buy right from the site without having to put in a request for certain images

    - You conveniently have 1,000s of stock photographers in one location instead of having to sift through individual photographer's stock photo submissions sent by parcel post. As you know, postal mail doesn't come with a search box!

    - With a stock agency or stock image portal, you can save time because they offer uniform buying guidelines, download methods and search capabilities no matter which photographer you choose.

    Individual Photographers

    Another way to find digital stock photos on the Web is to contact a freelance stock photographer directly.

    You might need to work with a photographer one-on-one if ...

    a) you need stock photos for a specific location or with a specific theme, and are unable to locate the photos you need, or

    b) you'd like to assign certain projects to one photographer who specializes in that field. It is even possible to work with some stock photographers by setting up an "on spec" relationship.

    This means that you give the stock photographer your photo needs and he/she shoots images with the understanding that you may only purchase one or two (or none) of the stock images.

    I have worked with several textbook photo researchers this way and I've found that the images the photo buyer didn't use many times sold at a later date to a different photo researcher.

    Working "on spec" may be easier to set up than you may think, especially if you catch the stock photographer during a slow photo period.

    "On spec" is many times a win-win for the stock photographer and the stock photo researcher.

    This is just one example of how the Internet makes it possible to work with one or many photographers and transmit your photos quickly by email or by download from a photographer's Web site.

    Quality and Size of Digital Photos

    Probably one of the most confusing aspects of buying digital stock photos is how to determine the size and quality of an image.

    When you receive photo submissions by postal mail, you have the actual photo print or transparency in hand, making it easy to determine if the quality and size are adequate for your project. However, with digital photos it's not always that easy.

    Formats Used in Digital Stock Photography

    JPG (or JPEG) format, which is one of the most popular formats for digital stock photos, enables the photographer to reduce an image's size tremendously for emailing to photo buyers while retaining the size and quality needed for most magazines and publications up to even a two-page spread.

    Most digital stock images are displayed as thumbnail images, and then high-resolution (high-res) images are emailed at the photo buyer's request.

    Warning: A major drawback of using JPG digital files for photos is, if the photo is re-saved over and over it will lose some digital information each time it is saved. So, it's a very good idea to save a JPG image as a Tiff file as soon as you receive it. This way you can save it without sacrificing quality.

    Fortunately, most stock photo agencies require that images be of top quality before they're accepted. This eliminates your worries about the quality of images in many cases, but always make sure the size of the stock image fits your needs before making a purchase.

    Model / Property Release

    If you plan to use your stock image for advertising purposes, or for some editorial use, you may need a model or property release. Check with your magazine or client and do some research to make sure which images will need a release.

    Licensing Agreement for Digital Stock Photo Usage

    Also, read the photographer's licensing agreement carefully so you'll know how, where and the length of time you can use the photo.

    The general rules of usage still apply when buying stock photos on the Web. That's another reason to work with a dependable stock agency site or directly with a professional stock photographer.

    Use these tips to help locate great digital stock photos easily, and when you need them!

    Quality camera case protects expensive lenses

    : For any level of photographer, it is essential to keep gear protected. M-Rock has developed a compact line of camera cases to suit any photography need. The wide range of styles and sizes of camera cases comes equipped with some vital features for protecting expensive camera accessories. Water Resistance. Weather and water can be public enemy number one to an active photographer. M-Rock has gone great lengths to ensure their camera cases can withstand the elements. The M-Rock triple protection system on every case consists of a rain-flap, zipper and front buckle. And if that’s not enough, all cases come with a protective weather jacket that serves as a dry bad in inclement weather. Rigid Structure. Delicate photography materials cannot stand heavy pressure. M-Rock camera cases are constructed with water resistant material, plastic paneling, and thick closed cell foam. The result is a rigid structure that protects all the gear inside. U Shaped Cradle. A large problem for photographers can be space restrictions and placement of lens within the camera case. Unlike competitors, M-Rock components are universal and can be placed in just about any imaginable combination. Larger M-Rock camera cases come with a rigid foam U-shaped cradle to hold lens while in transit. The U-shaped cradle can be placed on any of the camera case walls to perfectly hold any size lens. Quality photography relies on quality gear and components. Great lenses are an investment for photographers that should be protected with quality camera cases. M-Rock has thought of all the essentials in their line of camera cases to protect your lenses and keep you shooting.
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